You wanna avoid overhyped “cult wines?” But what if the hype is deserved? Some of the best Gamay in France comes not from Beaujolais’s Foillard or Lapierre, but from a guy named Souhaut in France’s forgotten corner called the Ardeche. His newest “Souteronne” release is among his best version ever (it stone-cold *crushed* the Lapierre Morgon our somm friend tasted side by side). Biodynamically farmed, this is a cracking red (aromas that suggest N. Rhone purpliciousness as much as Gamay’s usual mineral crunch) that’s both serious & gluggable. Roast chicken? Yes. Naked on a beach or bear rug? Also yes.