Has there ever been a label that more perfectly summed up my feelings for a bottle’s contents? Is it a lemon? Is it a supernova? Methinks it’s both: this here is a lemon-creme-curd-custard aromatic brain-blaster of a wine. Cirelli is a modern organic master, as interested in running a picture storybook-perfect farm as he is in making rapturous wines (animals graze and fertilize throughout the entire property). Crackling acids and an almost saline finish make this a food-friendly swooner of a wine.