Yves Duport Bugey Mondeuse

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Halfway between Lyon, France and Geneva, Switzerland, sits one of the wine world's single best-kept wine secrets: the alpine hamlet of Bugey, so tiny that it eludes even the geekiest of French wine geeks' radars. Often lumped in with neighboring Savoie because of its size — which itself is relatively obscure — and often grouped with the larger Jura region (which everyone and their mother is chasing after) — Bugey is its own wonder, and very much worth your exploration. One of the greatest producers there, and one of the most devoted to natural winemaking, is Yves Duport, who tends his "dinosaur grape" (as he calles Mondeuse) biodynamically and doesn't mess with the winemaking: the result is like if an amazing Gamay from Beaujolais was orphaned and raised by a beautiful Aunt Syrah from St. Joseph: black currants, blackberries, herbs, and notes of salty black licorice on a light-medium bodied frame all make this our new fall-into-winter fave.

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