Biodynamic Cataratto turned into bubbles? Hello, Magic! Catarratto, western Sicily’s answer to the east's fascination with Carricante, is here turned into a freakishly gulpable sparkling white. Marco Sferlazzo is one of the emerging greats from Sicily’s wild west, and his vineyard is a mystical wind-swept mountain-top (it’s not named “Gate of the Winds” for nothing) set 2000 feet above Palermo. Incredibly steep slopes with constant, brutal winds ('Voria' is the Sicilian name of the wind that howls through the vineyards) render a wine of crispness and verve, and the wine is shot through with notes of sea air and ginger.