La Sève -- French for vine sap, the lifeblood -- and an indication of the essential target Olivier Horiot is aiming for. Not "refinement" (though he achieves it) or "perfection" (he professes not to believe in it) but essaying to arrive at the core of what his organically farmed piece of red clay and Kimmeridgian limestone-splattered earth can achieve. This is an all Pinot-Noir cuvée from a single parcel called 'En Barmont.' Horiot is one of my newest Champagne discoveries, and quickly becoming among those I clutch most tightly, covet most intensely, and drink most exaltedly. See if this takes *you* right to the lifeblood as well!