Cider from the Loire? Excusez-moi?! Before the area became a mecca for Chenin producers (and lovers of the holy grape, as many of us here self-identify), it was a premier region for cider production. Julien’s on a mission to resurrect that long-standing tradition of cider-making, replanting heirloom varietals of apple and pear that used to thrive there. This is his slightly off-dry cuvée made from Averolle & Locard apples. It’s round and plush, but with a crunchy acidity that makes this at once both crushable and complex. Aperitif? Dinner pairing? Dessert? All of the above.