When does Gamay stop being Gamay, and turn into Burgundy? And when do we simply call it “the idea of earthly sustenance that exists in the divine mind?” This is where right here. Julie Balagny is a new star in the constellation, but to our eyeballs she is absolutely one of the brightest. A student of the great Yvon Metras, she has a three hectare plot in Fleurie that's enveloped by forest and biodynamically farmed. She bottles by soil type (this is her granite-driven cuvée), and the results are like nothing else we know. An electrifying, ethereal being.