Matthias Hild has brought the bling back to Elbling. Once the most-planted grape in Germany, it was often treated indifferently and made into simple and forgettable table quaffers, while Riesling got all the loving attention! No more! Hild is devoted to taking the grape seriously, and using it to highlight his special corner of earth, the Upper Mosel. This section of the river, right on the border with France and Luxembourg, has a) nothing to do with Riesling and b) nothing to do with slate. Instead, we find limestone, the nervy and lively basis for all your favorite wines (Chablis & Champagne anyone?). At its best, Elbling's super-chalky acidity is a joyous and life-affirming thing, and no one gets that more than Matthias Hild. (We weren't surprised in the slightest when it showed up on NYT's best bubblies of 2020 list!)