This is old-school cool. Winemaker Peter Wetzer, disgusted by industrial methods of winemaking, decided to return to his grandfather’s way of doing things: an organic and holistic approach to farming, tailored to a specific plot of land, its climate and surrounding ecosystem. His Kekfrankos (Hungarian for Blaufrankisch) is almost implausibly elegant: floral aromas & dark black fruit on the nose, lifted, pure black cherry fruit on the palate, and a lingering, slightly grippy finish. Impossibly sexy, this is one of the best $30ish reds in the store. (Roasting a chicken? The perfect sub for Chinon or Burgundy!)