This is the kind of bottle that restores your faith in the idea that Californian Pinot is capable of complexity, subtlety, and magic. Coming from the “true Sonoma Coast,” way out Bodega Bay way, this is our dream of cool climate CA Pinot: strawberries, black tea, wet forest floor, dried flowers, herbs, dark spices, juicy Bing cherry. Decant it and try (it’s hard!) to drink it slowly, because it keeps evolving as it opens. (Dedicated to Robert Mondavi by his grandsons, this is a wine worthy of CA’s vinous patriarch.) What a find.