Once upon a time in Burgundy, the great, recently passed American author Jim Harrison, sat down for a 37-course lunch. He noted that some might object that it "cost as much as a new Volvo station wagon," to which he said: "My response to them is that none of us 12 disciples of gourmandise wanted a new Volvo. We wanted only lunch and since lunch lasted approximately 11 hours we saved money by not having to buy dinner. The defense rests." Such is my response when people ask why I spent as much on a Pet Nat as I might on Champagne -- I tell them because natural winemaking wunderkind (and punk anarchist) Anthony Tortul of La Sorga doesn’t make a Champagne. The defense rests.