It's finally happened: David's slain Goliath. “Like many underdogs, Aligoté is currently having a moment, recast in a trash-glamour sort of way. At a time when Burgundy has become a totem for the rich, Aligoté stands out as its populist wing — the sort of Bernie Sanders of Burgundian varieties.” So said the ex-SF Chron wine wag, Jon Bonné. Wanna know the wine he called the region’s undisputed best? You’re looking at it. Sourced from parcels just east of Puligny-Montrachet, this is the sort of thing that upends your wine hierarchy and makes you say, Chard-a-what-now? We get very, very, very little of this; act fast!