There’s a reason Burgundy freaks and critics like Antonio Galloni (who prefers Italian wines to big Russian River cherry cola bombs) go ga-ga over Peay’s Pinots: being way, way out on the edge of the Sonoma Coast gives an elegance and purity to these wines that you don’t find elsewhere in that gerrymandered appellation. Still, while it may have the elegance to pour next to a Premier Cru Burgundy, there’s no mistaking its California fruit. But the red cherries and black raspberries here are deep, earthy, and savory, with hints of sage and mint threaded through, too. Galloni gave it a 95 and called this “exceptionally polished,” and we agree. Yum.