One of the hardest-to-get winemakers from Piedmont isn't among the so-called "Barolo Boys," and has never been on the cover of a magazine with Robert Parker. Fabio Gea is a former geologist who decided to chuck everything and farm his grandpa's land in Barbaresco. Infinitesimally small in scope (his few rows of Nebbiolo, Dolcetto, Barbera, and Grignolino wouldn't even cover the field in Yankee Stadium), and makes some of the most electrifying wines in Italy. Naturally farmed and made, this is rich, herbal, shot through with shimmering cherry fruit, and a bit of grip. Decant this, close your eyes, and fall hard. You don't blind this; it blinds you.