"A wine with a soaring architectural structure, skyscraper, iron and mettle, something dauntless, a jaw-clenched vitality. And yet, under that taut gantry of cordite and citric peel, there is honey. There is a cusp of the most delicate white peach, like the white pearl of a new moon, slim sickle silver in the charcoal sky. A wine with what I can only describe as brutal honesty. It shocks, stops, clarifies, magnifies, illuminates, sharpens the beauty. Like a pane of glass, it shows what is. Like a pane of glass, it has unsparing edges. Like a pane of glass, it is strong; it is fragile." Thus wrote Jancis Robinson about one of our Wines of the Year. Get it while we have it.