Some wines you look at and just want to slap upside the head while saying, "YOU HAVE NO RIGHT TO BE THIS GOOD FOR $17!" But that's why we're in therapy! We'd like to announce to the whole room that we have nothing but respect and admiration for this Mencia. Made by a legendary maker of white wines (try their 140-year-old vine Godello sometime!), their red is a wonder: rocky soils, high altitude and cold-ass Atlantic winds sculpt a lifted, racy, tangy and red-cherry-scented wine with stunning spice and drive. Medium-bodied, high-toned, and all class. See? We can behave when we practice!