When ex-Vintage Berkeley wine tsar turned winemaker Jason Lefler was confronted with a lot of Paso Robles Aglianico that didn't remind him of its Vesuvian origins? He almost abandoned it for its lack of typicity. Almost. Built on a firm foundation of glorious Paso Robles-sourced Petite Sirah, the Aglianico delivers a kind of Cal-Alpine pop of tangy red fruit. Cabernet and Syrah add structure, herbal complexity and a mid-range to unite the whole. The result? A wine better than he had ever dreamed, and better than we deserve.