Sometimes unicorns come in disguises. The Sderci brothers recently renewed their limestone-soiled vineyard, grafting a selection of Sangiovese clones onto their 50-year-old rootstock. Because it's "young" fruit (even though it’s old vine) they decided to declassify it, calling it a “Tuscan Red” instead of a Chianti Classico. But in a great vintage like 2018? ("A modern benchmark," one called it, and "this vintage may turn out to be profound," said another.) This is even more of a steal.