Just across the Umbrian-Tuscan county line from Le Pianate blends of Sangiovese and Merlot sell for small fortunes; “Super-Tuscans,” they call them, for their lack of Sangiovese purity. This Umbrian version is a fraction of the price... and, one might argue, considerably more soulful than the Tuscan trophy wines! The project of Andrea Trulli & famiglia, Le Pianate is an organically farmed 17-acre wonderland of vines in the small Umbrian village of Castelbuono. His 'Un Paio' is a blend of Umbria's most famed grape of Sagrantino (50%) along with roughly equal parst of Sangiovese and Merlot. This is Italian table wine at its most life-affirmingly simple and pure: think sour cherries, figs, soy umami, blackcurrants, plums and leather. An ideal candidate for the heartier fare that comes off your summer grill, it will also cellar yummily for a couple years. (Forget those $200 Super-Tuscans; how about a Super-Umbrian for under $20!)
