If you want a crash course in terroir, look no further than the slopes of Mt. Etna, where deeply volcanic soils and a marked microclimate lend a singular profile to the wines produced from the hardworking vines of the region. An undisputed master of this striking terrain is Giuseppe Russo, who has farmed his family's old vine parcels since 2005. Of his single vineyard Etna Rosso bottlings, 'San Lorenzo' offers up the darkest, most brooding fruit, with charred plum, ripe blackberry, cocoa powder, and crushed graphite on the palate, with a welcome wisp of dried oregano and rose petal aromatics on the lively, textured finish. Structured, deeply concentrated, and distinctly Etna.