The name Giacomo Conterno is as close to holy as there is in Italian wine lore. He was the first to put Barolo on the map as a serious wine, producing his first Riserva bottling in 1920, and now his grandson Roberto leads the charge for greatness. With Barbera, it’s no different. (A wine magazine recently titled an essay, “Can Barbera Be World-Class?” and used Conterno to answer in the affirmative.) Powerful in its youth, bright with acidity from its limestone soils, and shot through with Barbera’s telltale sour cherry flavors. (Decant now, or cellar for a decade!) Who knew Barbera could be so regal?