This is like no other Gavi on the planet. The wine director at Chez Panisse first introduced me to this winemaker, telling me that my ideas of what might be happening in Gavi were about to be exploded. Sourced entirely from a single, high-altitude vineyard (named yes, 'Montemarino') of old-vine, biodynamically farmed Cortese that's macerated for 3 days on the skins. This is a natural wine that can't decide if it's wild or elegant: incredible aromatics, with notes of V.A,-popped hazelnut & caramel. On the palate it's seductive: honey, apricot, angel's food, and autumnal earth all interplaying. The sort of thing Michelin-starred somms covet.
