If I tell you that this wine is a baby, will you still buy it (you should, O Lord, you should)? Or will you worry about whether you’re a responsible enough adult to take care of a baby? (We have confidence in you!) Our rec? Buy two. Forget one in your cellar, or what passes for it, for 5-20 years. Take the second one and open it now, now, hours beforehand NOW for dinner tonight. Whichever guests don’t faint in delight will thank you profusely. Roasted meat, red and black fruit, rosemary, hot tar, braised violet petals. Incredibly structured, it’ll last for decades; but no one will prosecute you for taking, er, celebrating, its life tonight!
