Given the notoriously temperamental nature of Burgundian growing conditions, it's a decidedly bold choice to eschew the use of more classically controlled winemaking techniques in favor of entirely natural and biodynamic practices. What stands out even more is a wine, made using those practices - organic fruit fermented spontaneously, with minimal sulphur added - that expresses terroir with clarity, is marked by concentrated flavors, and has the often-elusive tension that Burgundy fanatics crave. Paul Perarnau & Willy Roulendes, the farmer and winemaker behind Domaine Ami, have achieved exactly that with their old vine bottling from the oft-overlooked, isolated Saint Romain appellation. Floral aromatics on the nose lead to a rush of lemon, nougat, and green orchard fruit on the palate, buoyed by a dense mineral core, no doubt influenced by the Jurassic limestone and clay soils where the vines are planted. There's a changing of the guard happening in Burgundy, and it's an exciting (and delicious) thing to behold.