2016 Château Bel-Air Ouÿ Saint-Émilion

Sale price$55

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The famed “Bad Boy of Bordeaux,” Jean-Luc Thunevin, is back! After he pissed off the old-boy Bordeaux estates with his “garagiste” wine of Château Valandraud (they were unhappy both with his insistence on organic farming *and* the fact that he was beating the more established estates in “Parker Points”), he kept going: in this case buying and restoring a gorgeous old estate in St.-Émilion. The 2016 is super-serious: layer upon layer of black fruit (blackberries, plums), some graphite, and sweet, grippy tannins. Decant this, and make your hanger steak feel even sexier.

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