The human monkey-brain can be a small and self-limiting thing. When ex-Vintage Berkeley wine tsar turned winemaker Jason Lefler was confronted with a lot of Paso Robles Aglianico that didn't remind him of its Vesuvian origins? He almost abandoned it for its lack of typicity. Almost. Suddenly his frontal lobe rose up and overrode the amygdala, that fearful & traitorous brain-nugget, and dared to create a new thing, using his own French/Italian/Californian family as a blueprint. Suddenly: a new animal was born. Built on a firm foundation of glorious Paso Robles-sourced Petite Sirah, the Aglianico delivers a kind of Cal-Alpine pop of tangy red fruit. Cabernet and Syrah add structure, herbal complexity and a mid-range to unite the whole. The result? A wine better than his monkey-self had ever dreamed, and better than ours deserve.