One of the most exciting naturally made wines in the shop isn't from the newest region you read about in your "Punk Wine is Not Dead" zine and/or Natty Geographic. (Yes, we carry Japanese wines.) Nor is it that super-obscure grape you read about in Bon Appetit (yes, we carry Fer Servadou.) What? You're suggesting that a boring old *SYRAH* from over-touristed *TUSCANY* is one of the coolest wines in the store? In Stefano Amerighi's hands, yes, yes, a. thousand times yes. This is biodynamically farmed Syrah (which has been in the Cortona region since the 1700s) in a zone whose terroir is amazingly similar to the Rhone Valley, Syrah's "other" home, and it's as beautiful as anything that emerges from St. Joseph or Cornas at its price. Think wild plums and blackcurrants, with hints of olive tapenade and white pepper. So subtle, complex, elegant and alive you're forced to consider: maybe Classic is the New Coolio.