Domenico Clerico, one of the famed "modernists," is certainly that -- and the 2017 "Pajana" is an elegant shocker of a wine. There's a kind of Burgundian refinement here, it's so pretty and lithe. There's power and structure, but it's quiet -- this is Tilda Swinton in a tux, and not The Rock. Red fruit (strawberries, dark raspberries), wet earth, a mineral core, and a slinky sophistication throughout.
One magazine said, "The wine is seamless in a manner that Nebbiolo usually never achieves until it has had much more time to evolve and age in the bottle," and another called it "simply dazzling," and gave it 96 points; labels may be stupid when it comes to Things of Beauty, but they're certainly not far off.