This may be as wild and exciting a project as any in Europe.... and in this case it's one that actually traverses Europe!
Farid Yahimi, the rising darling of the French natural wine scene, has here taken some of the oldest vine grapes in all of Spain -- Verdejo that doesn't just predate the Spanish Civil War but the American one as well -- and lovingly transported it to his home winery in France to create the trans-Euro wonderment that is "Flamenco de Buddha Madre."
A smidge of the Verdejo is pressed directly to preserve Verdejo's trademark brightness and zip and citrus-pith'ed vivacity... but 90% is done on skins for 5 days, giving it weight, texture, and all sorts of apricot tea-ish notes to balance out its Meyer lemon, grass and fennel core. It's $38 and there may not be another vinous adventure out there we'd recommend over it for the dough. (We had this with a Moroccan paella at La Marcha -- Harissa chicken, merguez, almonds, raisins, olives, et al. -- and felt like stone-cold somm wizards.)