Is Francois Chidaine a wizard? In years gone by, we would have burned him to find out. Now, with the benefit of lax modern attitudes, we simply enjoy his mystical achievements without fear or suspicion. His Touraine Rouge is another Chidainian wonder, improbably marrying the brawn of Côt (Malbec), the aloof Cabernet Franc, and the polarizing Pineau d'Aunis. The result is a wine of spicy fruit brightness, mouthwatering texture and aromatics to dazzle even the most jaded drinker. Magical stuff.